Posts Tagged ‘lawn care’

Doggone It! A Primer on Lawn Burn

Thursday, July 29th, 2010

Lawn burn is a common problem that results when the urine of your dog burns the grass in your lawn. If you have ever had to deal with this problem, you know how frustrating it is and how difficult it can be to prevent.There are many home remedies to correct this problem, but most of them are ineffective and a few of them actually make the situation worse.

Before you start implementing changes to correct lawn burn, you need to make sure that your dog is actually the culprit! Several lawn diseases will look like lawn burn, with the small, characteristic brown patches. First, make sure that the brown spots are in areas where your dog urinates. Most dogs will have an area in the yard that they choose to use as the ‘bathroom.’ Secondly, make sure that the grass in the brown spots is still firmly attached. Grab a handful and give it a steady pull. If the grass is firmly rooted, then it points to lawn burn. If the whole bunch of grass pulls up, roots and all, then you may be dealing with a grub problem. And thirdly, make sure that your dog is the problem. If your neighbor’s dog is coming into your yard and creating the problem it will not do any good to treat your own dog.

Lawn burn is caused by the nitrogen in dog urine. Because dog urine is very high in nitrogen, when the dog urinates, it is similar to pouring liquid fertilizer on the lawn. A little fertilizer is good for the grass, but an excess causes nitrogen burn. The prevention of lawn burn deals with trying to reduce the amount of nitrogen coming into contact with the grass.

There are several contributing factors that increase the likelihood of developing lawn burn.

  • Female dogs are more likely to cause lawn burn than males because they void their entire bladder in one location instead of lifting their leg and marking, like males.
  • Large dogs deposit more urine so they increase the quantity of nitrogen in one location, making lawn burn more likely.
  • Those dogs, usually young active dogs, fed a high protein diet are more likely to produce a urine that causes lawn burn.
  • Heavily fertilized yards are already receiving near maximum levels of nitrogen. The small amount of nitrogen in dog urine may be all that is needed to put these lawns over the edge and cause lawn burn.
  • Lawns that are stressed are more susceptible to damage. Lawns that are suffering from drought, disease, or are newly sodded or seeded are more susceptible to lawn burn.

Successfully treating and preventing lawn burn often requires a multi-step approach.

  1. Saturate the urinated spots with water. After the pet urinates, pour several cupfuls of water on the spot to dilute the urine.
  2. Feed a high quality dog food that does not exceed the pet’s protein requirement. High quality foods have more digestible protein sources that are more completely utilized by the pet and create less nitrogenous waste in the urine.
  3. Encouraging your dog to drink more, will help dilute the urine and decrease the risk of lawn burn. Small amounts of non-salted broth in the drinking water may help increase your dog’s water intake.
  4. Train your dog to urinate in a location that is less visible. This approach is very effective for some owners that do not want to add supplements to their dogs’ diet.
  5. Replant your yard with more urine-resistant grasses. The most resistant grasses tend to be perennial ryegrasses and fescues. The most sensitive tend to be Kentucky bluegrass and Bermuda.
  6. Reduce the stress on your lawn by not over- or under-fertilizing and by providing frequent watering.
  7. If neighbors’ dogs are causing the problem, you may advise your neighbors of the leash laws. Using a fence or motion-activated sprinkler may be helpful in keeping these dogs off of your lawn.

Brown spots created by lawn burn are not a medical threat to your dog, however, they can be unsightly and potentially expensive to repair. By understanding the cause of these spots, and then making a few changes, you should be able to give your dog full range of the yard and still enjoy a trouble-free lawn.

Photo credit: (c) Hope Productions Unlimited, Inc.

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A Bug-free Garden, Naturally

Thursday, July 22nd, 2010

When used incorrectly, pesticides can pollute water. They also kill beneficial as well as harmful insects. Natural Backyard Conservation brochure coveralternatives prevent both of these events from occurring and save you money. Consider using natural alternatives for chemical pesticides: Non-detergent insecticidal soaps, garlic, hot pepper sprays, 1 teaspoon of liquid soap in a gallon of water, used dishwater, or forceful stream of water to dislodge insects.

Also consider using plants that naturally repel insects. These plants have their own chemical defense systems, and when planted among flowers and vegetables, they help keep unwanted insects away. The table below contains a partial list of nature’s alternatives.

Pest Plant Repellent
Ant mint, tansy, pennyroyal
Aphids mint, garlic, chives, coriander, anise
Bean Leaf Beetle potato, onion, turnip
Codling Moth common oleander
Colorado Potato Bug green beans, coriander, nasturtium
Cucumber Beetle radish, tansy
Flea Beetle garlic, onion, mint
Cabbage Worm mint, sage, rosemary, hyssop
Japanese Beetle garlic, larkspur, tansy, rue, geranium
Leaf Hopper geranium, petunia
Mexican Bean Beetle potato, onion, garlic, radish, petunia, marigolds
Mice onion
Root Knot Nematodes French marigolds
Slugs prostrate rosemary, wormwood
Spider Mites onion, garlic, cloves, chives
Squash Bug radish, marigolds, tansy, nasturtium
Stink Bug radish
Thrips marigolds
Tomato Hornworm marigolds, sage, borage
Whitefly marigolds, nasturtium

**This information was reproduced in its entirety from the website of the USDA’s Natural Resources Conservation Service at  http://www.nrcs.usda.gov.

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Much Ado About Mulch

Thursday, July 15th, 2010

Mulching is one of the simplest and most beneficial practices you can use in the garden. Mulch is simply a protectiveBackyard Conservation brochure cover layer of a material that is spread on top of the soil. Mulches can either be organic — such as grass clippings, straw, bark chips, and similar materials — or inorganic — such as stones, brick chips, and plastic. Both organic and inorganic mulches have numerous benefits.

Mulch

  • Protects the soil from erosion
  • Reduces compaction from the impact of heavy rains
  • Conserves moisture, reducing the need for frequent waterings
  • Maintains a more even soil temperature
  • Prevents weed growth
  • Keeps fruits and vegetables clean
  • Keeps feet clean, allowing access to garden even when damp
  • Provides a “finished” look to the garden

Organic mulches also improve the condition of the soil. As these mulches slowly decompose, they provide organic matter which helps keep the soil loose. This improves root growth, increases the infiltration of water, and also improves the water-holding capacity of the soil. Organic matter is a source of plant nutrients and provides an ideal environment for earthworms and other beneficial soil organisms.

While inorganic mulches have their place in certain landscapes, they lack the soil improving properties of organic mulches. Inorganic mulches, because of their permanence, may be difficult to remove if you decide to change your garden plans at a later date. Therefore, this tip sheet is limited to the use of organic mulches.

Mulch Materials

You can find mulch materials in your own yard! Lawn clippings make excellent mulch. While not particularly attractive for a flower bed, they work wonderfully in the vegetable garden. The fine texture allows them to be spread easily even around small plants. However, grass clippings are becoming scarce because of the increased popularity of mulching lawnmowers that provide many of the same benefits of mulching to lawns. Newspaper, as a mulch, works especially well to control weeds. Leaves are another readily available material to use as mulch. Leaf mold, or the decomposed remains of leaves, gives the forest floor its absorbent spongy structure. Compost makes a wonderful mulch if you have a large supply. Compost not only improves the soil structure but provides an excellent source of plant nutrients.

Bark chips and composted bark mulch are available at garden centers. These make a neat finish to the garden bed and will eventually improve the condition of the soil. These may last for one to three years or more depending on the size of the chips or how well composed the bark mulch is. Smaller chips tend to be easier to spread, especially around small plants. Depending on where you live, numerous other materials make excellent mulches. Hay and straw work well in the vegetable garden, although they may harbor weed seeds. Seaweed mulch, ground corn cobs, and pine needles can also be used. Pine needles tend to increase the acidity of the soil so they work best around acid-loving plants such as rhododendrons and blueberries.

When to Apply Mulch

Time of application depends on what you hope to achieve by mulching. Mulches, by providing an insulating barrier between the soil and the air, moderate the soil temperature. This means that a mulched soil in the summer will be cooler than an adjacent unmulched soil; while in the winter, the mulched soil may not freeze as deeply. However, since mulch acts as an insulating layer, mulched soils tend to warm up more slowly in the spring and cool down more slowly in the fall than unmulched soils.

If you are using mulches in your vegetable garden or flower garden, it is best to apply them after the soil has warmed up in the spring. Cool, wet soils tend to slow seed germination and increase the decay of seeds and seedlings.

If adding additional layers of mulch to existing perennial beds, wait until the soil has warmed completely.

Mulches used to help moderate winter temperatures can be applied late in the fall after the ground has frozen but before the coldest temperatures arrive. Applying mulches before the ground has frozen may attract rodents looking for a warm over-wintering site. Delayed applications of mulch should prevent this problem as, hopefully, the creatures would already have found some other place to nest!

Mulches used to protect plants over winter should be loose material such as straw, hay, or pine boughs that will help insulate the plants without compacting under the weight of snow and ice. One of the benefits from winter applications of mulch is the reduction in the freezing and thawing of the soil in the late winter and early spring. These repeated cycles of freezing at night and then thawing in the warmth of the sun cause many small or shallow rooted plants to be heaved out of the soil. This leaves their root systems exposed and results in injury or death. Mulching helps prevent the rapid fluctuations in soil temperature and reduces the chances of heaving.

Applying Mulch

Begin by asking yourself the following questions:

  • What do I hope to achieve by mulching? Weed control? Moisture retention? Soil improvement? Beautification?
  • How large is the area to be mulched?
  • How much mulch will I need to cover the area? Mulch is measured in cubic feet. As an example, if you have an area 10 feet by 10 feet and you wish to apply 3 inches of mulch, you would need 25 cubic feet.

Determine what mulch material to use and purchase or accumulate what you need. Mulch can often be purchased bagged or bulk from garden centers. Bulk may be cheaper if you need large volumes and have a way to haul it. Bagged mulch is often easier to handle, especially for smaller projects. Most bagged mulch comes in 3-cubic-feet bags.

  • Compost — refer to the tip sheet on composting for information on how to make your own compost.
  • Leaves
  1. Collect leaves in the fall.
  2. Chop with a lawnmower or shredder. Whole leaves tend to compact if wet or blow away if dry. Chopping will reduce the volume and facilitate composting.
  3. Compost leaves over winter. Some studies have indicated that freshly chopped leaves may inhibit the growth of certain crops. Therefore, it may be advisable to compost the leaves over winter before spreading them.
  • Grass clippings — spread them immediately to avoid heating and rotting.
  • Newspaper
  1. Save your own newspapers.
  2. Only use newspaper text pages (black ink); color dyes may be harmful to soil microflora and fauna if composted and used.
  3. Use 3 or 4 sheets together, anchored with grass clippings or other mulch material to prevent blowing away.

The amount of mulch to apply will be determined by the mulch material you are using.

General Guidelines

  • Do not apply mulch directly in contact with plants. Leave an inch or so of space next to plants to help prevent diseases flourishing from excessive humidity.
  • Remove weeds before spreading mulch.
Mulch Materials
Material Amount to Apply Notes
Bark mulch 2-4 inches Smaller chips are easier to spread, especially around small plants. Excellent for use around trees, shrubs, and perennial gardens. When spreading mulch around trees, keep the mulch an inch or two away from the trunk. A couple inches of mulch is adequate.

There is no need to apply the mulch 6 or 8 inches high, as often is seen.

Wood chips 2-4 inches Similar to bark mulch. If using fresh wood chips that are mixed with a lot of leaves, composting may be beneficial.
Leaves 3-4 inches Best to chop and compost before spreading. If using dry leaves, apply about 6 inches.
Grass clippings 2-3 inches Thicker layers tend to compact and rot, becoming quite slimy and smelly. Add additional layers as clippings decompose. Do not use clippings from lawns treated with herbicides.
Newspaper 1/4 inch Apply sheets of newspaper and cover lightly with grass clippings or other mulch material to anchor. If other mulch materials are not available, cover edges of paper with soil. Applying on a windy day can be a problem.
Compost 3-4 inches Excellent material for enriching soil.

Bark mulch and wood chips are sometimes used with landscape fabric or plastic. The fabric or plastic is laid on top of the soil and then covered with a layer of bark chips. A caution to this practice: while initially the plastic or fabric may provide additional protection against weeds, as the mulch breaks down, weeds will start to grow in the mulch itself. The barrier between the soil and the mulch also prevents any improvement in the soil condition and makes planting additional plants more difficult.

For Sources of Mulch

Check under mulches or garden centers or nurseries in the Yellow Pages. Your community may also have wood chips from the removal of street trees that are available free to residents.

**This information was reproduced in its entirety from the website of the USDA’s Natural Resources Conservation Service at http://www.nrcs.usda.gov .

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A Dirty Little Secret

Sunday, July 11th, 2010

What’s underneath that beautiful expanse of green has a lot to do with quenching your yard’s thirst.Water soaks into the ground at different speeds, depending on the composition of your soil type. If dirtyou know your basic soil type, use the following table as a general guide to watering. (Soil test kits and instructions are usually available at lawn and garden centers, and at better hardware stores. Soil test services and information are often available through your local County Extension Office).

Soil Type Infiltration
Inch Per Hour
Time For 1 Inch
To Soak In
Sand 2.0 inches 0.5 hours
Sandy Loam 1.0 inches 1.0 hours
Loam 0.5 inches 2.0 hours
Silt Loam 0.4 inches 2.25 hours
Clay Loam 0.3 inches 3.3 hours
Clay 0.2 inches 5.0 hours
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What’s Your Lawn Doing for You?

Monday, July 5th, 2010

Do you dread summer lawncare? Does the thought of spending hours out in the hot sun mowing, weeding, fertilizing and watering leave you less than enthusiastic about your yard? To better appreciate the work your turfgrass is doing for you, consider these facts from the Professional Lawn Care Association of America:

The front lawns of 8 average size houses have the cooking effect as about 70 tons of air conditioning, while the average home-size central air unit has only a 3- to 4-ton capacity.

Turfgrasses trap much of an estimated 12 million tons of dust and dirt released annually into the U.S. atmosphere.

Turfgrasses help purify water entering underground aquifers by its root mass and soil microbes acting as a filter to capture and break down many types of pollutants.

A turf area of just 50 feet square absorbs carbon dioxide, ozone, hydrogen fluoride and perosyacetyle nitrate and will release enough oxygen to meet the needs of a family of four.

So your little patch of paradise is cooling, cleaning and purifying your environment. And really, what beats the smell of a new-mown lawn on a sultry summer day?

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Tips on Tools – Just in Time for Father’s Day

Thursday, June 17th, 2010

Do you hear it? The hum of lawn mowers on a summer afternoon…it’s practically a national anthem for a few short months as homeowners across the country put mowing into high gear on a weekly basis. We’ve already discussed how short to cut your lawn in this post. But when should you begin to mow a newly sodded lawn? You can mow when you can pull up on an individual piece of sod and feel that it has been rooted down. This may take two weeks or two months, depending on how well you maintain the lawn.

Photo by Kelly Burke

What to mow with? Riding mower vs. walk-behind vs. rotary…This question and other tool tips are addressed in a great blog post by Kelly Burke. We’re sharing it here because our goal at Bethel Farms is to provide you with an exceptional product and great service and arm you with the knowledge you need to create the outdoor space of your dreams. We’re all about Improving America’s Outdoor Experience.

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Till, Test and Treat – Preparing Your Yard for Sod

Thursday, April 29th, 2010

Are you ready to turn that patch of dirt into a lush lawn? Preparing your yard for the installation of sod amounts to tilling the area, testing the soil, and then treating the soil according to the test results. Smoothing, rolling and watering complete the process.

For the best result, rototill or spade the area to a depth of 10 to 15 cm. (4 to 6 inches). Eliminate drainage problems by having soil slope away from foundations, etc.

Soil test your lawn area with the assistance of qualified service in your area. Then rake in fertilizer, lime, peat, compost, etc. as needed to a depth of 7 to 10 cm. (3 to 4 inches). Rake and smooth the soil removing rocks, roots, and large clods. Roll the area lightly with a lawn roller 1/3 full of water. This will firm the soil surface and reveal low areas that need more soil. Keep the grade 2 to 3 cm. (1 inch) below sidewalks or driveway.

Water the prepared area to settle soil and provide a moist base for turf. Moistening to a depth of 15 cm. (6 inches) is recommended for most soils.

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The Long and Short of It – Grass That Is!

Thursday, April 15th, 2010

It’s mowing season again, but before you start your engines, take a look at the chart below for recommended mowing heights and frequencies for the most common grasses in North American lawns. The “rule of thumb” is not to remove more than 1/3 of the leaf surface area each time the lawn is mowed.

Turfgrass Optimum Height Mow When It Is
Bluegrass 2.0 inches 3.0 inches
Perennial Ryegrass 2.0 inches 3.0 inches
Tall Fescue 2.0 inches 3.0 inches
Fine Fescue 2.0 inches 3.0 inches
St. Augustine 2.0 inches 3.0 inches
Buffalograss 2.0 inches 3.0 inches
Bermudagrass 1.5 inches 2.25 inches
Centipede 1.5 inches 2.25 inches
Zoysia 1.5 inches 2.25 inches
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Wintering Empire Zoysia

Thursday, March 11th, 2010

img_turf_empireAlthough this has been a colder than normal winter in central Florida, there are some standard guidelines for Empire care.

Two of the biggest mistakes people make while caring for Empire are overwatering and over fertilizing with nitrogen.

The last application of fertilizer should have been in September or October with 10-12lbs. of a 9-2-24 per 1,000 square foot of lawn. If you are in the habit of pulling soil and/or tissue samples, be sure to check the potassium levels (the last number in your fertilizer label = potassium). If the required levels are low it is a good practice to add potassium through a dry or liquid application. Potassium helps thicken the cell walls, thereby strengthening the resistance to frost, insects, fungus and reduces the need for water.

Even if we are experiencing high winter temperatures, the number of daylight hours has decreased and therefore so has the growth rate. With cooler temperatures and slower growth rates comes a reduction of water required to maintain healthy Empire. A once a week watering should provide the turf with enough water to stay healthy. If you have a healthy soil with very little slope the watering may be reduced to one ounce every two weeks. Empire naturally goes semi-dormant to dormant in the winter months.

Like many other warm season turf types, Empire is subject to Rhizoctonia (Brown Patch). If you notice two to three foot wide oval brown patches with a slightly gold outer rim color, most likely you are experiencing brown patch. This disease is sometimes referred to as large patch in Zoysia. Generally, two applications of Heritage, Armada or Prostar will remedy the problem. Make applications 12 to 14 days apart at the labeled rate.

Now that spring has arrived, (March/April) another application of fertilizer may be required. In general a 9-0-24 slow release product is sufficient. If you have experienced Rhizoctonia (Brown Patch) you might choose to apply ammonium sulfate instead. The ammonium sulfate will cause a sudden drop in PH while giving the turf a kick to outgrow and overcome the Rhizoctonia. When utilizing ammonium sulfate, only apply around 6-7 lbs. per 1,000 square feet of turf. If you opt for the 9-0-24, apply 10-12 lbs. per 1,000 square feet of turf. The grass should begin growing as the days get longer and the temperature continues to rise. If you desire a darker green, utilize liquid nutritional sprays containing iron, magnesium and manganese. These materials can be applied as needed without compromising the environment.

When Empire is fully recovered from winter the mowing height can be reduced to 1”. As you enter the summer months the height can be raised to 1.5” never to exceed 2.5”. If you desire a golf course look, this would be a good time to rake and vacuum your lawn.

The programs listed are sound practices to maintain a healthy lawn while protecting our environment. Keep in mind that “more” is not always better! Properly maintained turf grass is a benefit to our environment and contributes to a higher quality of life.

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